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Jaume Labro grew up near Barcelona, in a Catalonian city steeped in history. His fascination with jewelry began early, sparked by a deep appreciation for gemstones and the luminous appeal of diamonds.
An Education in Gemology and Global Exploration
After digging into gemology at GIA (Gemological Institute of America), Jaume found himself pulled into the vibrant world of gemstones. Travels took him far—mines and bustling markets scattered across Asia, South America, and Africa became familiar ground. Each location taught him something new, though nothing matched the mastery he achieved under Victor Tuzlukov. Widely regarded as one of the finest gemstone cutters, Tuzlukov was a mentor like no other. “He’s more than just the best cutter,” Jaume recalls, “he’s an amazing teacher and person.” Without a guide like Tuzlukov, such skill is almost impossible to learn.
That was only the beginning. Something else captivated him: Mokume Gane.
The Discovery of Mokume Gane
Mokume Gane, an ancient Japanese art, inspired Jaume to reimagine jewelry entirely. His journeys abroad weren’t just about finding rare stones—they were about seeing possibilities. The gemstones were always his focus, the core of each design. “For me, the gem is the star,” he explains, “and everything else is built around its natural beauty.” His ambition? To craft fine jewelry that amplifies a stone’s inherent elegance, transforming it into wearable art.
Jaume Labro Handcrafted Jewelry: A Unique Expression
To achieve that, he mastered Mokume Gane, a technique born in Japan 400 years ago. Its creation involves fusing layers of different metals to create wood-grain-like patterns, and Jaume was determined to learn it authentically. He spent years in Japan and later refined his skills in Switzerland, where a scientific approach to goldsmithing complemented the ancient traditions he had studied.
The result of these experiences? A signature style all his own. With a commitment to detail and authenticity, Jaume Labro handcrafted jewelry stands out as a harmonious blend of artistry and tradition, each piece reflecting his unique journey and creative vision.
Crafting a Distinct Signature Style
Barcelona’s artistic spirit left its imprint on Jaume, but the teachings of Japanese masters like the Nakamura family (some honored as National Living Treasures) shaped him just as profoundly. In Switzerland, a Basel-based goldsmith added precision and innovation to Jaume’s repertoire. The merging of these influences was transformative. His work blends past and present—modern aesthetics with centuries-old techniques. “Every jewel tells a story,” he says. Each design carries echoes of his personal adventures, reflections of nature, and a reverence for timeless beauty.
The History of Mokume Gane
Origins in Samurai Artistry
Mokume Gane, meaning “wood-grain metal,” began with a Japanese artisan named Denbei Shoami in the late 1600s. Shoami lived in the Akita Prefecture, a time when samurai and their weapons held cultural and spiritual importance. Samurai swords weren’t just tools of war—they were symbols of status and power. Elaborate decoration elevated their prestige, and Mokume Gane was a key part of this artistry.
Shoami’s technique, originally called Guri Bori, mimicked patterns seen in lacquerwork. Layers of differently colored materials were carved to reveal intricate designs, similar to the lacquer art of ancient China. Whether Shoami aimed to recreate lacquer effects or stumbled upon Mokume Gane by accident is unclear, but what emerged was revolutionary. The first recorded use of this technique adorned a sword hilt, blending metals like gold, silver, copper, and Shakudo (a gold-copper alloy).
Adapting to Change: Mokume Gane in the Modern Era
Over time, Mokume Gane evolved. After Japan’s military reforms in the 19th century banned the public carrying of swords, artisans adapted, crafting other items to keep their traditions alive. Masters like Norio Tamagawa turned to making bowls and vessels, ensuring the craft’s survival. In the 1970s, Eugene and Hiroko Pijanowski introduced Mokume Gane to the West, bringing its intricate patterns to contemporary jewelry.
Jaume Labro’s Vision for Mokume Gane Jewelry
Although Mokume Gane’s origins lie in samurai culture, its application to jewelry is relatively recent—and uncommon. Few artisans attempt to combine the technique with gemstones, but Jaume Labro saw untapped potential. Each of his pieces is a tribute to craftsmanship, made by hand with traditional methods. Unlike mass-produced jewelry, which lacks character, his creations are alive with individuality.
“Designing is my way of telling stories,” Jaume says. Every piece he makes reflects his appreciation for life’s fleeting beauty and his deep respect for tradition. With his expertise in gemstones and his dedication to Mokume Gane, Jaume Labro has redefined what fine jewelry can be—intimate, meaningful, and timeless.