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Quads like dirt bikes are high-maintenance, owing to all the power packed in a small package. While built tough, and consisting of quality components, riding them as they’re meant to results in gradual wear and parts that eventually need to be replaced. Some of the most common spare and upgrade parts are drive belts, brakes and ATV axles.
Drive Belt Basics
Drive belts are directly involved in transferring power from the engine and transmission to the axles and wheels. The parts connect the drive and driven pulley in CVT gearing. With engines in quads now belting out enormous torque and power figures, belts are subjected to high rotational speeds, constant elongation and contraction as they move through gears, and enormous heat from resulting friction. This leads to gradual deformation, damage, and belts shredding to pieces.
While the reinforced Kevlar or synthetic cores hold up even in bigger bikes, there’ll be missing teeth, warped sidewalls and thinning along the length of the belt. That said, when experiencing such damage, it’s recommended to invest in a quality UTV drive belt.
Why They Fail
A snapped UTV drive belt isn’t a rare occurrence, considering these machines produce more power. and deal with higher-weight loadings. But the same is true in mid-spec ATVs with power numbers averaging 50 or so horsepower. Failing belts can further damage related parts, with the transmission and engine bearing the brunt. If your drive belt does fail while carving up trails, or mastering your rock crawling skills, a worthy replacement from dedicated ATV and UTV parts manufacturers is always welcome. Common reasons why the parts fail include overheating when pushed and pulled through pulleys at high engine loads, and temperatures exceeding 200F, enough to melt even the toughest rubber.
Moreover, misaligned and contaminated belts also fail prematurely. Belts misaligned against pulleys and clutches will deform sooner than later, and excessive mud, water or debris thins out the tensile cords holding the parts together. Related are gearing issues, including incorrect use of high gears in technical runs, or worn clutch pulleys that exert higher stress on the parts than usual.
When buying spare ATV or UTV drive belts, ensure better build and higher-quality materials than what you got as stock on the quad, parts rated for the power output of the engine, those that are in the correct tooth count, length and design, and an ATV drive belt that can effectively transfer all the power the engine has to give. Performance variants aren’t necessarily expensive and will liven up older quads and add extra push when you’re harder on the throttle. Just ensure to properly break in the belt, with gentle nudges on the gas the first few miles, that clutch surfaces are clean, and that you’ve gotten alignment right.
Better Stopping Power with Performance Pads
While a UTV drive belt gets power to the ground, bringing your quad to safe stop or safely maneuvering through obstacles requires a decent braking setup. Most quads (smaller, older and kid machines being the exception) rely on disc brakes front and rear to handle higher speeds and effectively deliver stopping power in heavier or fully-laden quads. Stock brake pads will wear faster in more spirited riding, when hauling heavier gear or more frequent technical and downhill runs.
ATV brakes go through more abuse, with mud spray, water, debris and regular obstacles causing much of the damage. There are also the typical signs that they’re thinning out, overheating and losing touch with the rotors. Grinding and screeching noises when on the brakes signal worn friction materials rubbing against the discs, longer braking distances can mean warped discs and overrun pads with less to grip, and vibrations through the steering wheel and bars usually indicate uneven wear in left and right pads, often accompanied with wheels pulling to either side.
Safety
To ensure safety and pads that last longer, regular cleaning is paramount. Wipe off accumulated dirt or lodged items, and check thickness. Replacement pads come in three types – organic, sintered (or semi-metallic) and ceramic. Organic pads are stock components on entry-level machines, provide decent braking power for the relative engine power output and vehicle
weight, are generally quiet even under harder braking, and forgiving on the discs. They will however wear out faster under heavy braking and spew up considerable amounts of corrosive brake dust.
Shop for sintered pads, essentially a mix of metals, if you’re after performance. The combination of copper, iron, steel, composite alloys, resins and adhesives performs better in the high friction and heat environments caused when stopping at high speeds. And, they will make their presence felt, being louder and gripping rotors harder, but are what you’d want on all four wheels in machines producing more power. This may come at a price premium and they may need some time to warm up, but for mudding, rock-crawling or fast trails, sintered pads can’t be beaten.
A newer option is ceramic pads. These have trickled down from hardcore racing, and consist of a mix of ceramic and metal fibres and polymer binders. and reach a similar performance to sintered pads without annihilating the rotors or being too loud. The downsides are that they take even more time to warm up and that they’re usually the most expensive option.
Consistent Performance with Aftermarket Axles
Axles transfer power from the engine, transmission and belts to the wheels. Stock units can handle normal speeds and engine loads, but can suffer from higher torque or heat as power figures rise with extended bouts on the throttle. Subpar materials and build are the main reasons why stock axles fail early on, with lubrication loss from damaged or punctured CV boots covering the joints causing increased friction and higher temperatures. To prevent axles denting, seizing, snapping or braking off the wheels, look for appropriate aftermarket replacements.
Dozens of respected brands offer better build, increased performance and axles that last regardless of how or where you ride. Heavy-duty units include thicker steel shafts in higher grades than what came from the factory, with added strength, reduced metal fatigue and lowered corrosion as the main benefits. Joints are also machined to tighter tolerances and roll on more durable bearings. The package is complete with thicker natural rubber or neoprene boots to prevent punctures from everyday objects littering trails.
To get the best possible performance and even more longevity, spend a little more on extreme-duty variants. These include more material in all directions, essentially featuring thicker shafts made of 4340 chromoly steel and upping resistance to huge torque numbers from bigger-engined quads. The parts also handle heat and friction without succumbing to advanced wear.
Add the CNC-machining in the joints, the heat-treated ball bearings, even thicker neoprene or synthetic rubber boots or the increased angle rates for even better articulation and ground clearance over technical terrain, and you get a much-needed performance and durability boost for your quad.