Sewing Smart: The Best Fabrics for Every Garment Type

When it comes to sewing garments, selecting the right fabric is essential for achieving a professional, comfortable, and stylish finish. In the UK, clothing fabric retailers offer an impressive array of options, making it easy to get creative but also sometimes overwhelming. With so many choices available, it’s important to know which fabrics work best for different types of garments.

To simplify the process, we’ve put together a guide to the top fabric choices for sewing, tailored to various garment types, so you can confidently shop from an online clothing fabric UK retailer or walk into a store and select the perfect material for your next project.

For Blouses: Georgette

Georgette is a lightweight, sheer, and flowy fabric often made from silk or synthetic fibres like polyester. It has a slightly crinkled texture, which gives it a natural stretch and elegant drape. Thanks to its delicate yet versatile nature, georgette is a popular choice for creating airy, stylish blouses.

Georgette lends itself to elegant, delicate designs, often with a semi-transparent look. Its pliability allows for details like pleats, ruffles, and gathers, creating garments that are light, breathable, and suitable for both casual and formal settings.

When sewing with georgette, it’s best to use a fine needle (size 70/10) and polyester thread to avoid damaging the fabric.

For Activewear and Leisurewear- Stretch Jersey

Activewear and leisurewear demand fabrics that are versatile—ideal for the gym but comfortable enough for lounging at home or grabbing a coffee. Stretch jersey checks all these boxes.

This medium-weight, soft polyester jersey is perfect for sportswear and leisurewear. Stretch jersey is breathable, easy to wear, and comfortable, making it ideal for body-hugging apparel. Its four-way stretch allows for excellent flexibility while maintaining its original shape. To avoid fraying and ensure smooth seams, use a jersey or stretch needle when sewing.

For Flowing Dress, Maxi Dress or Body Suit – Massey Crepe

Massey Crepe is a poly elastane fabric that has an amazing drape and a smooth, silky crepe texture. It is extremely lightweight, with a smooth texture and matte finish. 

The Massey crepe’s excellent dropping qualities make it ideal for flowing dresses and maxi dresses. The fabric follows the natural curves of the body, adding elegance to the silhouette without being clingy. Depending on the blend, Massey crepe can offer a bit of stretch, which is especially useful for body suits.

Its lightweight nature allows air to pass through, making it comfortable to wear in warmer weather—perfect for garments meant for summer or outdoor events.

When sewing with Massey crepe, consider using a sharp needle. This type of needle will pierce the fabric cleanly without pulling on the delicate threads. To avoid distortion, avoid pulling or stretching the fabric as it goes through the machine. Just let the fabric feed naturally. 

For a Trench Coat – Cotton Twill

Cotton twill is a type of fabric characterised by its diagonal lines. It’s created through the weaving process where the weft thread goes over one or more warp threads and then under two or more warp threads. This type of weave creates a sturdy, durable fabric that is slightly heavier than plain weave fabrics like cotton poplin. 

Trench coats are often worn in different weather conditions, so they require longevity. Cotton twill is strong and resistant to wear and tear, making it a good option for this kind of garment. The twill weave gives the fabric a bit more body and structure than other cotton fabrics, helping the coat maintain its shape while also draping nicely.

Cotton twill comes in a range of weights and finishes, allowing for flexibility in the design and tailoring of trench coats, whether lightweight for spring or heavier for fall.

The fabric’s weight and weave require some special considerations for sewing with it. Choose a needle size between 90/14 and 100/16, depending on the weight of the twill. keep in mind that heavier twill fabrics require a larger needle. As for the thread, opt for a strong polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester thread, as this type will handle the weight and strength of the twill. Cotton thread is not as durable and might break under strain.

For Pants – Polyester

Polyester is a strong synthetic fibre that resists wear and tear, making it ideal for pants that endure frequent use. It holds its shape and resists wrinkles well, so pants made from polyester maintain a polished look with minimal ironing. Another great thing about polyester is that it’s highly resistant to stains and fading, so your pants will look vibrant for a long time. 

A ballpoint or universal needle (size 80/12 or 90/14) works best for sewing polyester – it will prevent fabric snags. Use polyester thread to match the fabric’s stretch and strength. A cotton thread may snap or pucker.

For Gathered Skirts: Chambray

Chambray is a lightweight, plain-weave fabric made from cotton or cotton blends, and it’s often compared to denim due to its similar appearance. However, unlike denim, chambray is woven with a single layer of coloured yarns in the warp and white yarns in the weft, creating a soft, breathable fabric with a slightly textured surface.

Chambray’s light and airy characteristics make it perfect for warm-weather garments, like gathered skirts. Chambray drapes well, which is important for achieving soft, flowing gathers in a skirt without too much bulk. It also has enough structure to hold the gathers neatly, allowing the skirt to maintain its shape without becoming stiff.

A universal needle (size 70/10 or 80/12) works well for chambray due to its lightweight, woven structure. If the chambray is heavier, you can opt for a denim needle. A good-quality all-purpose polyester thread is ideal for sewing with chambray. If you’re going for a more rustic or denim-like finish, you can use topstitching thread for accents. Pressing is key when sewing with chambray to create sharp edges and smooth seams. Always press after each step and use a medium heat setting with steam to avoid leaving shiny marks.

Now that you have a list of some great fabrics for making common garments, you’ll feel more confident in your choices. The next time you visit a clothing fabric UK retailer and come across these materials, you’ll know exactly what to sew with them.